L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon

MGM Grand, Las Vegas, NV

http://www.mgmgrand.com/dining/atelier-joel-robuchon-french-restaurant.aspx

Joel Robuchon (and, no, I can’t do the umlauts over the e) is crazy good. JR at the Mansion at MGM received three Michelin stars, the only restaurant in Vegas to do so. I couldn’t quite convince my party to spring for the $385 16-course menu at the Mansion, but I could convince them to try the “winter tasting menu” of five courses for $75.

L’Atelier features a very open kitchen around which much of the seating is placed. We were at one of the few tables with a not overly distracting view of the casino. Decked out in black and red, it’s a swanky but not haughty place. After a delectable selection of cocktails (mine was really good and I wish I could remember what it was) and dangerously pointy and dangerously addictive rolls,

our first course came out, which actually was a bonus course that the whole table got thanks to John and Angel springing for the menu decouverte: an amuse bouche of Foie gras parfait with port wine and parmesan foam 

I’m not typically a big fan of foam, but this was some fine foam — perhaps the most parmesan-y thing I have ever tasted, but ever so light. It was indulgent, just as it should be in Vegas.

Now, onto our real first course: Mediterranean vegetables layered with buffalo mozzarella

As you can see, it was eggplant and zucchini was some darn good mozz. Was it life-altering? No. Was it well-prepared and a nice start? Yes, indeedy.

Next step? Some seafood in the form of a Crispy langoustine fritter with basil pesto

I’m pretty sure this is my first langoustine, and I would like to have more, if they’re prepared like this. The crisp here was just right — not at all greasy nor overpowering, but still providing a nice saltiness to give the tender langoustine some edge. It was very good.

For the entree, we had a choice between cod and beef. Duh: French-style hanger steak with fried shallots

The picture doesn’t do justice to this dish. It was perfectly cooked, and the sauce was rich without being too decadent. The shallots added a subtle edge to the richness of the rest of the dish. It was very very very good. Coming with the steak were the most ridiculous potatoes in the most ridiculously adorable red crock of love. Somehow, I missed getting a picture of the crock (what a crock!), but here’s a photo of the potatoes so you can gauge their consistency:

It was like they had been frothed. It was like a potato cappuccino. Man they were good.

Now for a cheese course that featured your sheep, goat, and cow in nicely calming flavors and textures:

And then, les tartes:

Let’s see, you’ve got your marscapone, [can't remember], raspberry, chocolate, and lemon. And, again, they were just fabulous. 

Service was a bit awkward at times because there was a lot of reaching around our small-ish, tucked-in table, but was very attentive and informative. Overall, I was very impressed and thought I got away with murder for paying $100 for this meal with two drinks. I would go back in a heartbeat, and I cannot wait to hit the Mansion someday.

Majolica No More

In some very sad news, it appears that I will no longer have a revelatory sunchoke soup or other creative, seasonal wonders just ten minutes from home: according to the Inky, Majolica in Phoenixville has closed due to the economy and family reasons. I hope that the wonderful chef Andrew Deery comes back soon with something just as delightful and creative. Though we only ate their twice, you’ll note that it was in my top 5; since I know have two dead restaurants in my Top 5, I suppose it’s time to both revise that list and to consider doing a better job of supporting the restaurants I love. Let this be a lesson to you all! Follow Joni’s advice!